I think the standard way to winter over cannas in zones colder than 7 is to cut off the stalks, dig them out of the ground, or in your case remove them from the pots, wash the dirt off the rhizomes, and store the rhizomes in a cool dark place till spring. I believe while the rhizomes are being stored they shouldn't get bone dry or too moist. Last year I checked mine in the celler every month or so and ended up misting some of them in February. If I were you I would first check out the zone you live in. Next I would do a search at this forum about storing cannas. It seems every third question is about this topic. There is sure to be a ton of info here if you do a search.

chsanc2., I live in Massachsetts. It would be nice if we did get together....If I fail with storage on these. I have no problem growing these things perfectly while growing outside. I started cutting last winter. Then after the winter and pulling them out again, I fed them according to the grower I bought them from "dynamite". I only fed two. I was scared to give anything really since they were from cuttings. The two from cuttings grew inflos that I fed dynamite too, the others just big beautiful leaves. So this will be my first winter storing them away from the start to finish. That is rooted ones. I just talked to the grower, and he said that many, get this, take all the soil off the roots and store them in a very dark place. They have no leaves, they are in the dark, therfore no need for any water,none. So I will try it as he suggested with a couple. He said if I loose them, then he will send me more. Nice man he was. He also said I could leave the others in the potted soil with no light, just do not water. And before I store them in the basement in dark, to make sure the soil is dry or roots will rot. Also he said to cut all the leaves off. He said the advantage to no light and no leaves is no tip rot, nor spidermites on leaves. In our area, if we grow them as tropicals all winter, they won't rest properly, and they will be invaded by mites...Hum Hope this helps everyone. I figured who knows best than a grower of plumeria for over 20 years. Almost sounds like you can winter them like bulbs ha. P.S. Important. He said contrary to what people think, do not spray the leaves with water while indoors. This brings the onset of mold spot if you have leaves, and tip rot. They get hot sun all summer while outdoors, therefore if the leaves get wet, no rot. But indoors not so. So be careful. So much for me activley growing them all winter. Off the leaves come, and into the dark...lol Dave in nova, you are so right. They need to be sprayed with insectiside before brought in and before storing away, even if you take all the leaves off, so that when the new leaves start to grow in spring, there are no mites eggs to hatch and feast on anything. Hope everyone here is learning...Mike

Hibiscus Seed Capsules Seed saving is a lot of fun and it's easy to do! This is how I do it....and these are general and universal instructions. Mother Nature is pretty easy to figure out if we keep with the idea that SHE needs to keep it simple too. Take a good look at a flower. When the flower fades leave it where it is, do not remove it. Eventually at the base of the flower there will be some swelling. This is where the seeds are forming. Do keep the petals where they are and let them fall naturally...I don't touch it or bother it, I just leave it be. The base of the flower will swell even more and soon you'll notice that the flower stem and the swollen base are turning a papery-brown. This is a very good indication that the seeds are almost fully ripe....in effect the plant has achieved it's goal of reproduction for that flower...it has produced viable seeds and no longer needs to expend energy to keep it alive, so it doesn't sends it's sugars and water up to the stem anymore. That's why it's turning papery-brown. It's no longer being supplied with nutrients and so it's dying back. The drying action will continue and as the swollen pod continues to dry you will see it start to open....some pods will open in a starry design, plants like poppies create a ridge of tiny little circles near the top of the pod....they make themselves into something like a little "salt-shaker" (sorta...but you could imagine it.) All flower pods will open in some manner when the seeds are ripe....it's so they can disperse their seeds. When you see that the pods and stems are both brownish in color, AND you notice that the pods are starting to open you can then collect the pods. I place the pods on an open plate or in open bowls in a safe place where they won't be disturbed and let them continue to dry naturally for another week or two. Then I remove the seeds from them. To assure that the seeds are thoroughly dry I let them dry on an open plate for a few more days...I even will stir them every now and then to make sure the bottom layers will get a chance to dry too. Storing the dried seeds is easy. I use paper envelopes. I make my own with my printer, but you could use coin envelopes or even mailing envelopes will do fine too. Label them so you know what's inside. Store them where they'll be away from heat or direct sunlight. I use cardboard file boxes to keep my seeds in and those do just fine. Another good place to keep them is in your dining room drawers. Those are dark places and your dining room is sure to be safe from extreme fluctuations in temperature. Good luck with your seed saving! Trudi

Bean seeds are viable for years. They must be kept dry. You might put them in a ziplock bag and freeze them temporarily to make sure there are no bugs in them, but with purchased beans I doubt that is necessary. Here's an article on saving bean seeds Green Country Seed Savers.