As I understand it, professional orchid growers propogate orchids in sterile labs, and even then, it may not work, even if a particular plant is usually easy to propogate. Big plug for Meyers Conservatory, who's been among the best growers to deal with - for me, anyway. From his site: Meyers Conservatory's mission is to provide laboratory-grown orchid species at the lowest possible price in an effort to aid in orchid species conservation. Since we started in 1999, we've never operated as a for-profit business, instead charging just enough to cover the costs of the flasks we produce and to pay our employees. https://lab.troymeyers.com/flasking/donate-funds.php They accept donations. From the flasking page: We usually charge the same amount for each flask, regardless of its rarity. Rare orchids or particularly nice specimens usually command a higher price, but unless there are difficulties growing a species we don't charge more; we will charge more if propagation requires extra time or materials, but not just because it's desirable. By not charging a lot for something rare, we can rest easy knowing that we're not helping to perpetuate the high prices that make collection of wild endangered orchids profitable. __________ I check the site every couple of weeks. Troy doesn't have a large selection, but he's had orchids that I couldn't find anywhere else in the U.S. WC8 Here is a link that might be useful: Troy Meyers' flasking page

I am going to attempt to grow lingonberries from seed. They are related to cranberries and blueberries, so some things about their culture are similar. As has been stated, cranberries grow just fine without being in a bog. Being flooded aids commercial harvest, but that's the only reason they would ever need standing water. Like other members of the family, they like somewhat acid soil. They also benefit from lots of organic material in the soil. Lingonberries have similar health benefits. I know they do best in nutrient poor soil, though like others in the family, they like acid soil and organic matter. Peat moss, and lots of it, mixed in to the top few inches of the soil does the trick very nicely for both requirements. I think lingonberries are probably the better choice for me because while they are similar in taste, lingonberries have a higher sugar content when fully ripe. Some people even like them raw on their morning cereal. I can't imagine doing that with cranberries. That makes them that much more versatile in my book. I'm growing them from seed because they will be dual purpose, landscaping as well as for harvest. I will need at least 20-25 plants. Buying that many plants will set me back over $ 200, versus $4 for a pack of seeds, a little bit of shipping and some seed starting supplies. The seed starting instructions I've seen for lingonberry are probably the same for cranberry. Seeds should be stratified for at least 30 days. Plant very shallow in a well draining medium with lots of organic material and keep slightly damp. As always, when growing from seed, there is some variability in the resulting plants and fruit, as opposed to complete predictability with cuttings, rhizomes and other vegetative propagation.

I brought in a batch of 300 moso seeds last year. I have detailed my expermentation with germination on my website trying various recommended techniques, including a table with the variables. You may find it a good read. Check previous entries to read the entire experiment. http://www.hardyoutdoorexotics.com/?cat=11 To make things easier for you, I germinated them directly in soil. I had a 75% germination rate by soaking the seeds in a 10% saltwater solution for 10 minutes, and rinsing off with water before sowing. 67% germination rate with a batch that had an overnight soak in a 20-20-20 solution. And 67% germination rate with a batch that had a soak in a 10-52-10 solution. Those two 67% germination rates were ranked in the top 3 for breaking through the soil the quickest at 21 days. A water soak also broke through at 21 days but only netted me a 58% germination rate. For those that recommend a brief refridgeration for these seeds, germination was delayed, and the success wasn't that great. Here is a link that might be useful: My exotic plants blog

I do it 2 ways- I have the bottom of one of those 'seedling trays' you see all over the place in the spring. I've some pygmy drosera & a bunch of baby sarracenia in there, all in 4" tall pots. (those standard 4" tall, 4" square plastic 'nursery pots') I'll put about 1/2" of (rain not sink) water in there & refill it when the level drops to the point where the bottom of the tray is moist. Then I've a hanging pot- It's one of those ones from Rite Aid with the "thingy" (girlfriend's word) in the bottom so there's a water reservoir there under the media. About 1/2 inch up from the thingy I drilled a few 1/8" holes 'round the perimeter of the pot. Filled it with media & at first I had a little 1/2" piece of PVC pipe I could pour water through down to the reservoir. That got plugged somehow so I took it out. Anyway, I wait until the peat is still moist but starts to pull away from the side of the pot a little- 1/8" or so. Then I gently pour in the water letting it flood across the peat. The bottom fills, excess runs out the holes & it's good for another week in the summer, perhaps a month in the winter. The hanger has pygmies & flytraps & a nepenthes- I just scattered a bunch of byblis seeds in there. Outside I've a pedestal pot- Picture the hanging one sitting on a post. Pretty much the same deal except without the thingy in the bottom. Holes are about 5" down from the top leaving about 2" in the bottom for the water. That's where my adult sarracenia & a few flytraps live.. Plus a little voodoo lily- I've no idea how that got in there nor how it hasn't rotted away yet. So that's how I do it. The plants get to "reach down" to the water without being waterlogged. Seems to work.