Thanks for the trades and the help in our community garden. To ymaddox, Charlie60, NancyPlants, FarnerGreg, mrs.b_in_wy your seeds will be on their way today, roper2008 return postage is headed your way. God bless you all! We STILL have some trades available and STILL need more help. It takes a lot to plant 1� acres and a good variety of veggies. Be sure to check out our initial post and if you have a surplus of seed and would like to trade or can send for SASBE to help the community outreach, please take a moment and respond. We will start our Greenhouse efforts at the end of February/first of March time frame and plan our community garden�s planting locations to ensure good rotation efforts�.just gotta know what we will have available to plan properly. Thanks in advance, ~Arkseven

chemocurl, yes, please close this as I don't see a way to bold or color my font....Will do. There are no different fonts here...one just has to know a few basic HTML codes to post big, and bold and in colors. I hope you have beaten your cancer. Thank you...yes, it has been about 12 years now cancer free. Where the heck to I go to post my seed trade offerings? When I click on "My Page" there isn't a way to add anything to it. To edit your Member Trade list, just click on the Member Pages link in the green banner at the bottom of any page, and then choose Edit your Exchange Lists I am also tired of all the pop ups, even with my pop up filter on. Hate all the adds that don't easily go away. It is one thing to have a banner at the top but those annoying big ads that take up the whole page and you have to click on the tiny "X" to make it go away bother the heck out of me. Please reconsider, won't you? Just stop by the Computer Help Forum, and tell them what browser you are using and they will help you get all fixed up. I don't see any ads or anything. Although I click on Save Login info, I continue to have to log on, even when I just switch to another catagory on this forum. I think it is due to the pop up issues. hmmm...maybe get the pop-up issues under control and then see what that does...If not fixed, ask at Computer Help...they are a friendly bunch there. Usually all they ask is for your browser and maybe what operating system you have. There are other sites that are so much easier to navigate so I may check in here every now and then but won't be on here much any more. I agree but am sorry you are leaving us so soon. Believe it or not, there are older members here who would be very upset if the forum format changed. We have gotten used to it and find it easy, almost charming...sorry you don't though. If/whenever you see this, if you ever have any questions or concerns, feel free to drop me an email, or else make a post on the (off topic) Conversation side of the Seed Exchange. The link to Conversations is just above the list of threads here on the On Topic Discussion/Trade side. Come back and see us...don't be a stranger, hear? Sue...resident busy body This offer is closed

I'm not sure who packaged your seeds, but I don't think you will have successful germination with just 21 days moist chill followed by warmer temps.....that doesn't come close to my experience with helleborus over several years, several seed sources, including my own seeds. Were your seeds sent to you moist packed, where they may have already been given a moist warm period - that would explain skipping that step. Two good germination databases: Druse - moist warm 56-70 days, followed by moist cold 56-70 days followed by bring to 60 - 65F for germination in additional 30-545 days. Clothiers - Helleborus orientalis, Pour hot water over seeds, let soak 1-3 days until swelling noticeable. Sow at 71ºF for 6 weeks or more. Move to 24-39ºF for 6-8 weeks (my own note - use refrigerator, not your freezer for this if not sowing outdoors). Then raise the temperature to 50ºF. If no germination in 4-6 weeks, repeat the cycle from the beginning. If the warm/cold cycles were not long enough, a new warm/cold cycle is needed. short viable seeds

It just helps in getting a higher germination rate, which is critical for the nursery grower. For the home gardener it simply means over-plant your seed flats if you don't have liquid smoke or some other stimulant. GA3 can help with CA native sages too and so can 3% peroxide for an hour, or immersion in 200 degree F water and allowed to sit overnight before planting in flats or in situ. This last method is the one that's allowed me to best germinate open-pollinated S. mellifera, S. apiana, S. clevelandii and S. spathacea. I boil the water and then let I it cool to that temp. The seed coat while get gelatinous and make the seeds sticky for handling, so I use toothpicks or popsickle sticks to handle them. I'm not familiar with your climate, but in CA we would typically germinate in Sept/Oct or in early spring. Rooting cuttings in spring is about as easy as growing from seed, I find. If you are going to just wintersow, I'd say no treatment is necessary, but you better have a lot of seed to toss out. Anything you start now will likely struggle through the winter unless you have a greenhouse or growing set-up with heat and w/o too much humidity. You would really have to baby them until it's warm enough for you to plant out. Of the sages native here... Salvia apiana Salvia brandegeei Salvia carduacea Salvia clevelandii Salvia columbariae Salvia dorrii Salvia eremostachya Salvia funerea Salvia greatae Brandegee Salvia leucophylla Salvia mellifera Salvia mohavensis Salvia munzii Salvia pachyphylla Salvia sonomensis Salvia spathacea Salvia vaseyi Salvia verbenacea I'd say vaseyi, eremostachya, pachyphylla, mohavensis, and funerea probably won't grow for you and the rest of them will die if allowed to sit in water and get any sort of rot. Planting on a slope will help with that.