Well I understand the concept now that you've explained it with the rows. You're basically saying two rows on the right and left hand sides down the center and rows on the right and left hand sides on the sides of the container. Is this right? If not, then please clarify. Unfortunately what I STILL don't understand is the figures you gave me. I understand that you're suggesting to make two rows in the center and two rows on the sides; one row on the left side, one on the right. What I don't understand is how far apart to space the "rows" in the center. Another thing I don't get is the figures you gave. Were you just giving them as examples to try and clarify what your idea was, or was this actual row and plant spacing for one of the vegetables I gave you. Here is the row and plant spacing for the veggies I plan to plant (this is directly from the seed packet info on the back of the seed packets I have). What I REALLY don't get is the figures you gave here: 9 Seeds = 9 6 Next rows on either side of the center = 12 3 On the edge = 6 27 TL MAX (remembering that you'll be able to eat some radishes while thinning them out). I thought it wasn't possible to plant multiple rows in a cylindrical container because of the shape. If you could PLEASE give clarification with the figures you gave, I'd appreciate it. I would like to try your idea. Unfortunately parts of it are still confusing me. I can't apply what I don't understand. I gave the row and plant spacing for my seed varieties as a reference because I didn't know whether or not the numbers you gave were just as a general example or referring to one of the vegetables I want to grow. Parris Island Cos Lettuce: Row spacing:18" (1-1/2 ft) Plant spacing: 12" per plant Turnips: row spacing:1-1/2 to 2 ft apart Plant spacing:4" per plant (this is after the seedlings have been thinned) Carrots (little finger variety which is a shorter variety than a regular carrot): Row spacing:I don't know; the seed packet doesn't say Plant spacing:1"-2" (this is after you've thinned the seedlings out) spinach: Row spacing:1-1/2 to 2 ft. Plant spacing: 6" per plant (this is after the seedlings have been thinned out)

Marg, like Ben I do a guestimation when repotting..but I can give you an approximate ratio. 1/3 part all purpose potting soil, (black) 1/3 sand and 1/3 peat..I also throw in a couple handfuls of Perlite. Because of the number of plants I have I buy 40 and 50lb bags of potting mediums. Out here you can get smaller bags of Perlite, but w/sand it only comes in big bags..but the thing about buying bigger sizes, it lasts a long time..And if you grow other types of plants you can mix your own soil come repotting time. For instance, when I pot up cactus and succulents, I add more sand/perlite than all purpose. When potting a tropical I use less. But it all evens out at the end..Toni

There are quite a few people here who have GE growing in their gardens. I bought two 3 years ago and have those two still growing nicely, must be my soil, light or whatever. I just bought two more cheaply. Here is some advice given by forum member 'dhaven' : "Some varieties are very picky about growing conditions, and unless they are planted in optimum conditions, they will either remain small, or fade away and die. The best example of this I know of is Great Expectations, which also happens to be my favorite hosta. A great many people have lost this one, sometimes more than once. I have three very large mature plants, and they are the prettiest thing in the garden. It took some experimentation, but there are three things that GE absolutely must have to thrive. First, and most importantly, plant it shallowly. It's going to be a very large plant, so the natural inclination is to plant it deeply, but this will kill it faster than anything else. Plant it so shallowly you are convinced that it will tip over, and you've got it right. Secondly, it likes a lot of light. Dappled shade is ideal, but it will take several hours of direct sun, either morning or afternoon. Third, it likes a lot of water. If you give a GE all three of these things, you will increase your chances of growing it into an absolutely stunning plant. If you want to try any of the hostas that have the reputation of being difficult, be prepared to try different locations and growing methods, and possibly go through several plants before you discover what works for that variety in your location. When you do find out what works, please share the information with the rest of us!" Bernd

Unfortunately, that width is probably going to limit you :-) The elevated nature of any above ground container exposes it to much colder temperatures than a plant would experience in the ground. Especially the roots, which are far more vulnerable to cold damage than the top growth with even very hardy plants. But the larger the soil mass around them, the greater the insulating factor, so with a large container in a moderately cold zone you can often get away with overwintering plants that would likely not survive in a smaller container. Pretty much any tree or shrub you may choose will easily produce roots that fill up that 10" width, resulting in a root system that will very likely come into contact with the planter walls and therefore be exposed to excessively cold air temperatures. And root damage (resulting in plant death) can occur at temperatures as mild as the mid 20's, depending on species. And you are looking at the possibility of below zero air temps in zone 6 :-(( You might be able to risk it with the selection of some hardy dwarf conifers but they tend to be expensive to use in what is essentially a hardiness experiment at best. I wouldn't recommend any flowering shrub or tree except perhaps something like alpine currant, as the root system will simply get too large too fast. Unless you are inclined to toss money away on this experiment, I'd stick to seasonal plants. You can always stick in cut willow stems or redtwig dogwood stems together with cut conifer greens and hollies if you want some winter interest.