Hi Axel, You mention a few things that I'd like to respond to. I'm really not sure why I'm responding because these topics are like religion or politics. Nobody's mind is changed. But just a few observations: "many synthetic chemicals have been shown to cause cancer" For my part this may be true of some pesticides, but it means very little. Gasoline is listed as a carcinogen. That doesn't cause most people to stop pumping gas. I don't even see them wearing gloves. Or any protection to keep them from breathing the fumes. The real issue is what dosage does it take to cause cancer. With pesticides the residue, even on commercial fruit is measured at ppm (well below the carcinogenic threshold. Just because something is labeled a pesticide doesn't mean it's highly toxic to humans. Hair spray is toxic to insects, yet we spray pounds on our hair (hopefully not that much daily.) My point is pesticides are designed to be toxic to the pest, yet as safe as possible for the consumer. "they are bad for the environment because they degrade very slowly." This is both true and false. Some things like DDT stay around for a long long time, others have a very short half-life. The same is true for organics. Some are very persistent, others not. "Also, they accumulate in the body." I disagree with this statement. Most synthetics are rapidly excreted out of the body. "But organic techniques have come a long way" I agree and hope progress continues in this area. However, it is also true continued progress has been made in synthetics. Newer ones are safer and in some cases more pest specific. I use a product called Intrepid. It is highly specific, lethal to just moths, and very effective. This is an advantage of synthetics, that man can engineer them to fight specific pests. "Many people don't realize that there are a large plethora of organic pesticides that are equally as effective. While they too are toxic they degrade so quickly that by the time the fruit is ripe, the pesticides are long gone." Many people don't realize how much spraying it takes to grow fruit organically southeast of Miss. Read the latest article in Fruit Grower News (I think available on-line.) There is a piece about the only existing commercial grower in the southeast. Even though he uses all the modern organic tools, he admits to spraying three times the amount of chems. as a conventional grower. My thought when I read it was, what is he doing to his land? I can't imagine what the sulfur, copper, and aluminum (Surround)buildup is doing to his soil. If our country took that approach, I'd hate to think what we would do to our rivers and watersheds.

The Neem oil products, Insecticidal Soaps, Sulfur dusts, and most of the plant based insecticides (pyrethrin, rotenone, etc.) are broad spectrum poisons that can, when used improperly, cause as much or more harm as the synthetic pesticides. If the soil your plants are growing in is a good healthy soil so the plants grow up strong and healthy they will be less attractive to the insect pests reducing your need to spray poisons around. If in addition you create an insectuary, a garden with a wide variety of flowering plants, that is attractive to the predators they will be there to help you maintain control of the pests. Growing organically is much more involved then simply using certain "fertilizers" and insect sprays (still poisons) and not using "chemicals" (synthetic materials) because most of the organic materials people do use are chemicals.

Sheri, You're welcome. I hope the info helps. Ladybugs are often easier to find in the spring, at least around here. You might want to call around and save yourself frustration and gasoline. You can always order online too. They are shipped in a semi-dormant to dormant state. Once you release them, it will take a few days for the adult ones to reproduce. When the larvae hatch, they will look like little oblong alligator-type creatures. It is the larvae that really eat pests like crazy! Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Example of Online Ladybug Supplier

Interesting. From Wiki centipede article: " Centipedes are found in an array of terrestrial habitats from tropical rainforests to deserts. Within these habitats, centipedes require a moist micro-habitat because they lack the waxy cuticle of insects and arachnids, and so lose water rapidly through the skin." Doubtful the soil of your plant is also housing enough critters to sustain centipedes, though possible. I wonder if they just find it a convenient place to stay when not hunting? If that is the case, repotting may or may not help if they are generally in the building and just hanging out in the pot. Keeping the soil less moist should make the pot a less habitable environment. Elevating the pot so air reaches the drain holes well (and are a bit harder to find if you're a bug crawling around on the floor could also help, if the pot is sitting on the floor (an assumption that a $50 tree is that big?) Some centipedes do eat organic matter, so if excess moisture is causing roots to rot, that could be attracting them as well. SM's are usually on the bottom of leaves, so any spray should be aimed there as much as possible. Are the leaves of this plant smooth (without hairs?) If so, wiping them with a cotton ball that is damp (not dripping) with rubbing alcohol can remove them. SM's can also be rinsed, if it's warm enough to take it outside and hose it down. If the soil/root ball is not 'shifty,' you can also lay it on its' side and do that in the shower. Try to avoid getting the soil soppy wet, I usually put the pot at the other end from the drain. For plants that get SM's while inside, it's usually an ongoing battle to keep them at bay until plants can go back outside. They can show up from nowhere, so prophylactic systemic treatment before bring in does not ensure your plants will not get SM's later.