"I've harvested bags of seaweed from the beach on the Florida east coast and it broke down quite nicely in my compost bin." Im having a hard time invisioning harvesting seaweed. Maybe the long strains of kelp, and the density of kelp forest, you can easily grab ahold of it,or maybe a rake harvesting tool of some sort.. But, over here swiming in the lake, we have very fine seaweed, it would seem difficult to harvest. On another note of kelp harvesting, ill leave you with a quote from Charles Darwin: "I can only compare these great aquatic forests(kelp forest)...with the terrestrial ones in the intertropical regions. Yet if in any country a forest was destroyed, I do not believe so nearly so many species of animals would perish as would here, from the destruction of kelp. Amdist the leaves of this plant numerous species of fish live, which nowhere else could find food or shelter; with their destruction the many cormorants and other fishing birds, the otters, seals and porpoise, would soon perish also; and lastly, the Fuegian[s]...would...decrease in numbers and perhaps cease to exist." ��" Charles Darwin, 1 June 1834, Tierra del Fuego, Chile Also on the note of kelp detoxifying pollutants, radiation, etc. maybe it's better if we leave the kelp do it's thing in the ocean, maybe we are doing more harm than good harvesting it, i dont know.

There is a lot of research in the past, in progress, and in the future concerning exclusion of single macro/micro-nutrients and critical/ideal level experimentation on a wide rage of food and ornamental crops...as well as different types of chemical complexes used to deliver the nutrients. Commercial growers, especially, use this information to best drive their production. It's known that switching to a NH4/NO3 mixture when corn starts tasseling and grain fill will create fuller ears and hasten drying time compared to just NO3. A lot is known for some ornamentals and crops about how much of what needs to be available in a plant for ideal production. The research trip point is that a lot of this research needs to be regional or wide-in-scope once you start interacting these nutrients in different soil types (structure, pH, mineral soil types, OM, etc). In containers, it's easy to manage...in the ground, you run into 100s of combinations of tripping points that can effect multiple points of nutrient availability. The thing about this is most of the research for stuff in ground tends to be whatever commercial farmers are growing in the region rather than all the crops a home gardener may want to grow.

I use Biotics Research Corporation - Bio Multi Plus. It's balanced and easily absorbed. This is the main brand my chiropractor/kinesiologist uses and has helped me greatly. I honestly don't trust a lot of vitamins. Side note - not to get into debate, but the studies that say vitamins are bad for you and you can get everything you need from the food you eat... I'd like to know what vitamins they tested since they're not all created equal.

Rhizo there are two types of Vitamin K: (copied from the article linked above) 1. Vitamin K1: Found in green vegetables, K1 goes directly to your liver and helps you maintain a healthy blood clotting system. (This is the kind of K that infants need to help prevent a serious bleeding disorder.) 2. Vitamin K2: Bacteria produce this type of vitamin K. It is present in high quantities in your gut, but unfortunately is not absorbed from there and passes out in your stool. K2 goes straight to vessel walls, bones, and tissues other than your liver. You don't get the K2 from green vegetables. Foods high in vitamin K2 include: Natto (a food popular in Japan) Hard cheese Soft cheese Egg yolk Butter Chicken liver Salami Chicken breast Ground beef Chisue, I don't see in the article where it says how much to take.. other articles I have read say about 200 mcg.