You don't talk about more branches the better in 4 in 1 trees- you just don't have a choice. I hate these trees- they are a virtual impossibility to train well. Each variety has it's own level of vigor, but in Asian pears and peaches this might not be as big a problem as with apples. Apples are all I have experience with in this form. It looks like branches were already cut back for shipping. What you need to do during the growing season is keep the 4 different varieties growing at about the same pace so one doesn't dominate the tree. I can see that will be an issue for the peach for sure, with the top branch in position to dominate. Pinch growth that eminates from where branches were cut to encourage dominance of a single leader while developing less vigorous (smaller) secondary branching off it. Each variety should be treated like an individual central leader tree in terms of form. The central leader being like a trunk with smaller branches (no more than half diameter) coming off it. Also pinch back as needed to keep the different varieties in balance. Pinching means that you're removing as little growth as possible to stear energy where you want it, so it won't really retard overall growth. If you let the trees go without guidance for even one season you may loose control with certain varieties dominating the tree and starving out other varieties. Anyway, that's my opinion. My experience is primarily with 4in1's that have been badly trained and I have to try to straighten things out later. I would never produce a tree like this, much better to alternate varieties by tiers off a central leader, placing most vigorous varieties at base. In other words, new varieties are grafted as extensions of the trunk as the trees grow up. This wouldn't work well for peaches, though.

Some kind of deciduous stone fruit, like a cherry. If you are bothered by the fallen petals, you really won't like it if it ever has a good crop of fruit. I was once approached - while gazing upon some Japanese flowering cherry street trees of a locally rare variety - by a duffer with a flat-top haircut and an artificial lawn and no trees or shrubs who hoped I was there to cut the trees down. You see, the fallen petals made "an awful mess" and he just had to get his blower out each year and blow them away. In Japan there is a tradition of setting out blankets in front of flowering cherry trees, having a picnic and gazing upon the falling petals etc. To become comfortable with the situation you either remove the tree to accommodate your existing point of view or change the way you think about it and keep the tree.

I would start determining what TYPE of hydrangeas. See the link below (which by the way, has a ton of useful information): http://hydrangeashydrangeas.com/identify.html First, there is no need to prune hydrangeas if they have no issues. The only time that I prune is when there is dead wood and I wait until mid-to-late May to see if it leafs out first. If not then I prune it. But some years like this one, I forget and it is not a big deal as the stems either fall down on their own or will be covered by the foliage. Macrophyllas, serratas and oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood. Some bloom on old and new wood. Old wood only means that they develop invisible flower buds at the end of the stems during July-August. These flower buds stay on thru winter and then open in the Spring. For that reason, it is not recommended that you prune them now. If you were to cut now, you would not get blooms from those stems in the Spring. So no bloomage at all next year if these bloom on old wood only. I would prune these guys after they have bloomed in 2017 (so I can see/get some bloomage) but before the end of June 2017. If it is not important that you will loose bloomage next year then you could prune now. But I think it may be even better to wait until the plant has gone dormant and the leaves have browned out. That is because you can "see" the plant's stems better when the leaves are not covering them. If your have macrophyllas, some of bloom on old and new wood so basically, they "rebloom". Those are better than the ones that bloom only once because their flower buds could get killed (or could be pruned) during winter and -yes, you would loose some Spring bloomage- but... you would get reblooms later on. Like late Summer or so. Paniculatas and arborescens blooms on new wood. That means that they develop the flower buds in late Spring (in the south) thru Summer (further up north) and those buds open quickly (usually during the summer). So, you could prune them now or when they go dormant without affecting next year's bloomage. Enjoy your hydrangeas and read the information on that link. Luis

Are you going to keep it in a container? If so, what do you plan to train or trellis it to? i.e., you can set the pot next to a fence or trellis and leave it there, or you can put a small trellis structure IN the pot and train to that so that the pot can be relocated any time, or you can just keep it in the pot and keep it trimmed as needed. Grapes grow quickly when they're in the ground... not sure how they'll do growing in a pot.