Rose slugs are the larvae of rose sawflies. They bear a resemblance to caterpillars, but when you learn enough about insects (btw, this is not necessary to be a successful gardener, including successfully growing roses), you will learn that there are external, identifiable differences between the larvae of sawflies (including rose slugs), and the larvae of moths & butterflies (aka "caterpillars"). This is a picture of a European species. It isn't the rose sawfly I saw (the one I saw was completely black), but there is more than species known by the name "rose sawfly". These insects are small (roughly 1/8" long) and bear a resemblance to wasps (which are in the same insect order as the sawflies), but sawflies have no stingers. Wasps feed on a variety of foods, and often are predators of other insects, but immature sawflies always eat plants. Sawflies are unable to cause physical harm to humans, but their babies may eat your trees & shrubs.

Okay, I will try spraying the aphids and white flies off with water. I'm out there every day, and I only have a few roses, so it won't be an issue. I read of a recipe to kill white flies that was 1 part isopropyl alcohol + 3 parts water + a few drops of vegetable oil. Would that be less harmful to bees and ladybugs, or is that still really bad? It was a recipe for white flies, not aphids so I don't know if it would work for them. It's not like the insecticide works that well :/ They always come back every week. Yes, all my plants are grown outside. I'll attach a picture of the roses. We live on the bottom level of an apartment so the roses get some shade and some sun. There are a lot of trees surrounding our apartment as well. We live in northern California. The weather just got warm. It was raining like 2 weeks, and then was sunny for 3-4 days when I noticed the leaves like that. I thought it might be that insecticide/fungicide/fertilizer spray because it was over 80 degrees and sunny when I sprayed them. Poor leaves probably died because of that. I was just reading the other day about how you aren't suppose to spray fertilizer on your plant if it gets 80 degrees plus. I didn't realize that about terra cotta pots :/ We didn't buy them, but inherited them from the neighbor. If I hose off the pots, would that make the roses less likely to bake during the summer? The dark pink roses we have (Miss America I believe?) have been in those black pots since last year. Another thing I learned is that black pots are bad in hot summers because they bake the plant :( But our roses have been happy. I water them daily, and the black pots have great drainage. I realize the dark pink roses need bigger pots. They grew a lot from last year. We were going to get brown plastic ones because we figured they wouldn't absorb the heat as much as black. When would be the best time to repot them? August? Thanks everyone for your help :) I'm going to wait to fertilize the baby roses till after they finish their first bloom cycle. I'm going to start with a more dilute solution and water before and after fertilizing since it's a soluble fertilizer.

Seedlings' biggest need is usually nitrogen, and sometimes they get deficient in Mg. Overwatering leaches out those nutrients and causes sickly, yellowing plants that don't thrive. A purple tinge from Phos deficiency is common for seedlings, even without deficiency in the growing medium, as roots have chronic difficulty managing P when underdeveloped and/or in small containers, and it corrects itself as the plant develops a good root system once planted out in a big container or in the ground. The product you're using doesn't seem to provide much N and mentions nothing about Mg. I wouldn't go futzing around with it now since you're close to plant out. Many a beginning gardener tries to correct a problem immediately that plant-out will solve only to overshoot and end up damaging seedlings further or killing them. Just make sure plants have nutrients after plant-out. I usually mix in some general-purpose organic granular into the soil around the planting hole (something like Espoma Garden-Tone or even Plant-Tone) or give one good dose of fish emulsion a few days after plant out, depending on what I have on hand. Once plants start flowering, I start feeding a tomato-specific fertilizer routinely. Tomato formulas will have comparatively lower N and more P and K than general-purpose fertilizers. Too much N later in the season results in huge, lush plants that just want to grow leaves and not flowers or fruit, but early in the season, plants benefit from some more N to give them a good start, especially if they're showing signs of deficiency at plant-out. A soil test to determine exactly what your soil needs is the most conscientious approach, of course, but if your plants don't show signs of nutrient problems once in the ground, it's probably fine to go with a balanced formula specifically for tomatoes once your plants start setting fruit. It sounds like you might be attracted to a more organic approach, so something like Espoma Tomato-Tone or Jobe's Organic Tomato fertilizer has served me very well in the past, and these are readily available at many common retailers.

This year is very similar to last year in terms of there being an abnormally warm October. When we have seasons like this, Fall foliage is not ideal. I am also in NJ (Zone 7) and am currently in peak color (went driving today just to see it in fact), but the colors have not been as stunning as in "normal" years. What I noticed last year too, was the leaves lingered on the trees even after they were nipped by frost. In my area, we have only had a very light frost so far (and many of my tropicals are still outside in fact). A harder frost should cover most areas in several days. And not sure if it's related to Fall color, but it's also been a very, very WET Fall.