Mark, I don't have pictures or a link. Here's how I do it. I scrape the loose bark flakes off of where I want to put the graft. I cut a large T in the bark. The top of the T is usually a couple of inches long and the vertical is about 2 to 3 inches long. I peel back the bark to separate the bark from the sapwood. If the scion is cut from a non-dormant tree, cut the leaves off but leave the petioles, like one would make a budstick. If the scion is cut on top as opposed to a tip, then I dip it in wax. The bottom 1 1/2 inches or so of the scion is cut like a whip graft on one side and on the other side the bottom 1/4 of an inch is also cut so that it forms a kind of a wedge. The scion is pressed deeply into the T, with the larger cut side against the sapwood. The graft is then wrapped tightly with polyethylene tape, leaving the top buds of the scion unwrapped. I can usually tell if the graft has taken within 2 weeks. So far, it always has.

CPTK, They use Syringa reticulate and if you decide to buy one to graft your dwarf Korean onto, buy the "Silk" one. It is smaller in size for your patio lilac tree. Look under Treefarmusa dot com and look under Dwarf Korean lilac tree and it tells you there.

Sebwin, Part of the difference between how well a grafted rose does as compared to an own root rose of the same variety, depends on your growing zone. In colder zones the extra boost of vigor and winter survivability a good rootstock gives the top graft bestows many grafted roses an edge. This is seen very dramatically with miniature roses, which are not usually available commercially as grafted bushes. Almost all miniature roses are sold own root, but when grafted they grow unbelievably vigorously, considerably larger, and with far more abundant flowers than own root minis produce. There are plenty of roses that grow very well own root in northern climes, but my experience has taught me, when grafted, a rose will do better up north than an own root. I have no experience growing roses in warm zones, but I believe the own roots do very well there, and when grafted may turn into monster roses. Moses

Karen, All roses eventually decline in vigor with age, grafted and own root alike. Nothing lives forever. Basal canes are the lifeblood of a rose bush. If an ancient rose can continue to push out those vigorous basal canes, it will go on for a long, long time. When they lessen in number and frequency of production, often being inhibited from emerging, the bush produces less growth, and consequently less flowers. Decline sets in. Death follows. What I believe contributes to a longer, and more vigorous life is a rose whose crown is not congested with tightly packed basal canes. A congested crown happens more easily with grafted roses. That rootstock limits the spread of the crown, especially if the graft union is above ground level. The crown in such a position just gets woodier and woodier as layer upon layer of annual growth builds up, choking the crown. Basal breaks don't have a chance to break through the tough wood building up, hence the decline of the bush results. Crown habits vary considerably from variety to variety. Those roses whose crowns are wide and send basal canes out at some distance from the crown's center, even a couple of inches, have the best opportunity to not build up layer upon layer of annual, continually woodening growth, growth which inhibits basal canes from breaking through. Own root roses, especially varieties of roses with wide crowns, crowns that send up basal canes well out from their centers have the best chance of staying vigorous and productive for a long time. I believe own root roses outlive grafted ones. However, the extra kick a vigorous rootstock gives a rose, frequently makes for a bigger, more vigorous, more heavily flowering bush, but at the expense of a shorter life. It really is a judgment call which route to go, grafted or own root...of course there are other factors that play into that decision, too. For example, in colder climates, grafted roses over own root ones can mean the difference between vigorous growth or wimpy limping along growth. Almost each rose variety dictates its individual root requirements. It can be frustrating and very time consuming discovering what does best on either type of roots. When you finally figure it all out, and have your rose garden in as near a state of perfection as possible, you find yourself old, worn out, and ready for the nursing home, or worse! Moses