I'm taking license and guessing what paving does to the left off the picture. What I'm trying to illustrate in the sketch is placing the two cherry laurels, balanced (and centered as a group) in the bed space created by the paving. A plan view that accurately shows the pipe location would be useful. If the irrigation pipe is still exposed as shown in the picture, I'd move it as necessary... rather than plant the most major component of the landscape unbalanced and off center. If the pipe can't be moved then I'd try to fudge things as close to correct as I could get them. Can't see how the pipe lies in plan view, but c. laurels might work out in front of it. (Would need to see plan view to know.) Keep in mind that these plants are trees & will get big, unless you keep them rigorously sheared. If you don't, you'll need to limb them up to keep them from eating up the patio space. If they're limbed up as they grow so canopy is overhead, they could be closer to the walk without being in the way. Unless you plan to let the Lady Banks heap over the top edge of the fence, I can't really see how it's going to fit in that spot. It's a big, huge heaping thing. Think half the size of a car.

It's timely that this conversation popped up. My husband is currently spending part of each morning pulling 'Silver Moon' down out of our old seedling avocado. It's been there for 8-9 years now, and in our mild coastal SoCal climate simply does not bloom. At all. So, it's got to go. And since the tree was just trimmed, this is a good time. He'd sort of like to put another rose up there . . . but we'll be more discerning, this time. It has to be something that will bloom here (which eliminates many Ramblers, if not all) and that won't mildew. Maybe 'Mel's Heritage,' since I just figured out that we have a spare one . . .

FIrst, you need to WAIT. If you only planted these roses a month ago, they have not even settled in yet, no matter which roses they are. Make sure they have enough water, and leave them alone. I presume that the new growth you and blooming you are seeing is mostly not terribly long canes that are not terribly big around? When they really decide to climb (which may take many months or a few years), they will suddenly start putting out one or more larger, long canes. Sometimes this frightens people, the canes grow so fast and tall. At that point, yes, to get the most flowers you can GENTLY pull the canes to as horizontal as you can get them without damaging them, and tie the to the lattice. They will put out blooms all along their length that way, instead of just one at the top. Do post pics on here of the bushes and the blooms - someone will probably recognize them. Jackie

I'm thinking that you might need to make a decision about whether you're going to let the tree regrow or keep it as a stump... If keeping it as a stump, you might like to consider Crepuscule - its glowing apricot tones should warm and brighten a dull day, and I think it would gracefully mound itself over the stump, eventually covering it completely. If regrowing the tree, Mme Alfred Carriere, after two or three years of settling in, should begin to shoot up into the new canopy, growing as high as there is support for her to climb on. Her big white to blush-white blooms would show up well in overcast weather, and she never balls in rain and damp. In warm/frost-free climates, both of these are pretty much perpetual flowering, producing good blooms for up to 10 months or more of the year. In some climates/areas people have found MAC prone to mildew, so you might need to get local advice on that. For me she was completely healthy and trouble-free. Comtesse :-)