As I understand it, professional orchid growers propogate orchids in sterile labs, and even then, it may not work, even if a particular plant is usually easy to propogate. Big plug for Meyers Conservatory, who's been among the best growers to deal with - for me, anyway. From his site: Meyers Conservatory's mission is to provide laboratory-grown orchid species at the lowest possible price in an effort to aid in orchid species conservation. Since we started in 1999, we've never operated as a for-profit business, instead charging just enough to cover the costs of the flasks we produce and to pay our employees. https://lab.troymeyers.com/flasking/donate-funds.php They accept donations. From the flasking page: We usually charge the same amount for each flask, regardless of its rarity. Rare orchids or particularly nice specimens usually command a higher price, but unless there are difficulties growing a species we don't charge more; we will charge more if propagation requires extra time or materials, but not just because it's desirable. By not charging a lot for something rare, we can rest easy knowing that we're not helping to perpetuate the high prices that make collection of wild endangered orchids profitable. __________ I check the site every couple of weeks. Troy doesn't have a large selection, but he's had orchids that I couldn't find anywhere else in the U.S. WC8 Here is a link that might be useful: Troy Meyers' flasking page

Note that if the rose you wish to root is 'Laguna' the Kordes climber, it was int. 1995, and is still in patent -- so should not be propagated. If your Laguna is one of the older editions, and is out of patent, there are a TON of ways to start roses from cuttings. All are good. Some work better with some roses, not as well with others. My friend Barbara Oliva said: "If you've tried to propagate a rose, and you've failed, you may be using the wrong method, or at the wrong time, for that rose." Under "ARTICLES" on the website of the Gold Coast Heritage Roses Group (see below) you'll find information on methods. You should also GOOGLE "Starting Roses From Cuttings" or "Rooting Rose Cuttings" -- which will give you a plethora of methods. Jeri Here is a link that might be useful: Gold Coast Heritage Roses Group

Well welcome to mystery land. I've cross pollenated my own Lilies before and gotten some real ugly looking things and some real nice ones. Most have been done before. The seeds can be removed and planted as soon as the pod starts to get "crunchy" or hard. This may require a daily check otherwise it may fall and split before you get them. Seems this happened on a windy night all too often to me so now I put a baggie around it. The seed color varies. I've had black, green, yellow and shades of those, however it doesn't seem to matter much if i'm a little too early or late. Mine have never bloomed the first year, may bloom some the 2nd and full size plants by the 4th year from seeds. There is no gaurantee the new color will stay that way thru coming generations. If you are trying to get a brand new variety like I am it seems very difficult. I thought I had one 9 years ago. I crossed a dark yellow with a Stargazer and got a Lily with a dark yellow base and a light pink brush with dark pink spots. It resembled "TOM PUCE" but with spots. After 3 generations of it I send it in and found someone had done it before. You can expect a surprise. I've planted the seeds inside (after 3 weeks in freezer) and let them grow all winter. And I've just let them lay on the ground all winter. They grow either way. Lilies are not very fussy about it. My current cross involves Lilium "NEGRE" (a very dark red) and "CASABLANCA". We'll see what I get. Take the seeds and plant a few in various ways just to be sure. GOOD LUCK to you. And you can name it LILIUM "MARBREE".

Henry, That is a great article. Thanks for posting it! I'm going to try it, too. I've pulled seeds from my Don Juan, Cl. to try. Thanks! Xtal