A couple or three possible FAQ questions: What are the recommended procedures for preparing the foundation for a greenhouse or greenhouse kit? (depth of excavation, burying foam insulating panels to restrict heat conduction into the ground, installing hardware cloth as a barrier to rodents, sand, crushed rock, perforated plastic pipes for drainage, etc.) How do I keep the copper in the pressure treated timbers from attacking, corroding, and even dissolving the attached framework of aluminum greenhouses? How do I protect a lean-to or attached greenhouse from falling icicles and snow slides from the eaves of the house? MM

haha! That's priceless! This one really made me laugh: Your non-gardening spouse becomes conversant in botanical names I didn't think my husband listened to me during any of my plant monologues, but recently he told me a girl where he works was a new gardener, and told me about the conversation they had about gardening. I was shocked at how much he knew to tell her! :D Also: YouÂd rather go to a nursery to shop than a clothes store. Me, definitely. I don't miss a week shopping at a nursery. I can't remember the last time I went clothes shopping.

Insecticidal soaps work quite well on sawflies. You will need to make more than one application, of course.

What is your soil type now? How much organic matter is in that soil? What is that soils pH? How well does that soil drain? How well does that soil retain moisture? How is the nutrient balance? Along with a good, reliable soil test from your state universitys USDA Cooperative Extension Service, or a lab recommended by them, these simple soil tests can be of help in getting that soil into a good, healthy soil. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.