Draceno draco trees have been transplanted successfully as can be seen at places like Lotus Land in Montecito. I would be concerned that you get sufficient roots and are doing it at the correct season of the year for best success. We don't grow them much here in northern California, so I don't really know all the specifics. I would suggest you contact a grower in southern California or an arborist who is familiar with moving the species to get better info

In my enthusiasum for the root stimulator, I negelected to comment on the most important part of your problem. Your plant is going to die. There is no real way for a mature tree fern to survive when it's root system has been damaged to the extent you suggest. The quantity of roots left cannot be expected to supply the amount of nourishment and water the foliage requires to survive let alone flourish. You don't say how the damage occured but obviously there was no preplanning involved. If the tree fern was being removed from a pot, it should have been carefully separated from the pot by sliding a large knife around the inside of the pot and the fern and soil ball wrapped carefully in burlap for transport. If it was being taken from the ground, there should have been a sharp edged shovel used to sever the roots between 6 inches and a foot from the trunk of the fern about 6 weeks before digging it up. (The larger the plant the larger the rootball.)This encourages new root growth close to the trunk. Using the root stimulator at this time is a good pretreatment and gives a better chance of survival. Lift the root ball carefully and lay it on burlap. Wrap it and the trunk firmly for transport. The less damage to the root ball the better.

A few weeks ago we transplanted a lime tree that had been growing in the ground for about 5 years. We were advised to plant it into a whiskey barrel planter. We followed all the directions of a professional but the tree looks dead and did so the day after transplanting it. I am very concerned because we were not told to prune the tree first and to not worry about how many roots we had to cut. We were told that the tree could lose 70% of its roots. We were also told to water the tree on a slow drip for 48 hours prior to transplanting. I have since read that the ground should have been dried 2-3 days prior and that we should not have cut the roots. I guess we basically did everything wrong! What do you think the chances are for this poor tree? Did we fail miserably? Were these completely wrong instructions? We moved and wanted to take the tree with us.

Olga, I am a big fan of liquid feeding after transplanting... I believe that it is an effective way to get nutrition to the tree while its roots are still establishing in the new location. I do suggest that you alternate with a high N recipe (weak solution, and only after already watering the tree). [I have alternated between miracle grow and Master Nursery Liquid Gold. ] I also believe that the fact that your tree has some leaves after transplanting months ago is a good sign. I think the roots are going to take much more time to settle in. In my transplant escapades, this process has taken from 1 to 12 months and longer with some rootstocks (i.e. Carrizo has taken up to 2 years to get "traction"). John: I cannot speak as to the soil or its make-up and acceptability for citrus. But, as an example of success, a business associate of mine bought a property in Santa Cruz many years ago with a reasonably large yard... there were and still are 15 mature Meyer Lemon trees kicking out an abundance of fruit. Good luck Olga, please do update us as to progress - George